{"id":2562,"date":"2017-05-03T09:34:49","date_gmt":"2017-05-03T08:34:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.sonarworks.com\/blog\/?p=2562"},"modified":"2020-04-08T20:25:11","modified_gmt":"2020-04-08T19:25:11","slug":"how-to-choose-the-best-studio-subwoofer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sonarworks.com\/blog\/learn\/how-to-choose-the-best-studio-subwoofer","title":{"rendered":"Studio Subwoofer: How To Choose The Best One"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>There are plenty of articles out there about the best studio subs out there, this one will be a bit different. We haven\u2019t heard or measured all studio subwoofers out there, so it\u2019s not easy to give you straight recommendations. Instead we\u2019ll teach you how to be bass-smart. This article will explain what to look for when shopping for a subwoofer to improve your low-end capabilities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 id=\"1491042540854-06aae7b1-d429\">Too much is enough<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The first question you need to ask yourself is how much bass you require. The good news is that you can\u2019t really buy a too large or powerful subwoofer as long as you can turn it down. You won\u2019t get your money\u2019s worth out of a 3kW 18\u201d sub running at 1\/100 output, but it won\u2019t sound bad. A wimpy 8\u201d 100W sub running out of steam is a situation where you don\u2019t want to find yourself. Ever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote\"><p>You can\u2019t really buy a too large or powerful subwoofer as long as you can turn it down.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p>Subwoofers work by pressurising your room. If regular speakers shoot music lasers at your ears (trust me on this), subs make bass by making your room smaller or larger. They shrink and expand by moving their drivers, thus the air in your studio will change pressure and you\u2019ll feel this difference. So, the general rule of thumb is that larger drivers move more air than smaller ones provided they\u2019re doing identical amounts of excursion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-uploads.imgix.net\/2020\/04\/sub_cones.png?auto=compress%2Cformat\" alt=\"subwoofer cones\"\/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>So even if you can eyeball the driver size (or read the specs), making sense how much air the driver can move is a bit trickier. Usually high excursion drivers have thick rubber surrounds that look like tire tubes. It won\u2019t necessarily mean good sound, but it\u2019s a good sign that drivers go low. As for driver size \u2013 12\u201d is usually enough to hit lower twenties in a sealed box. Which leads us to the age old discussion\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 id=\"1491047499735-cce2a6e5-4c65\">Sealed vs ported<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Much ink (and maybe even blood) has been spilled on the topic whether a good subwoofer should have a hole. We asked some of the major speaker manufacturers&nbsp;for the final answer on this topic but none budged. Instead we got some useful insights regarding the pros and cons of each design.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/blog-uploads.imgix.net\/2020\/04\/versus.png?auto=compress%2Cformat\" alt=\"versus\"\/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote\"><p>90% of the time integration will impact the overall sound more than the type of subwoofer enclosure one is using.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201cSealed cabinets have a lower group delay and a faster transient response. However a sealed cabinet suffers from acoustical inefficiency therefore the output is lower and the distortion is higher. A larger sealed cabinet and amplifier is needed for the same audio quality as a vented cabinet. Reverse these arguments for a vented cabinet.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.neumann.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>-Neumann-<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201cSealed offers better time behaviour&nbsp;(group delay time) for lower frequencies compared to a ported design. Unfortunately a sealed design will have a higher low cut frequency. To lower this frequency a boost can be necessary which increases also the group delay time. With a boost you also need to take care about thermal protection and power of the amp section.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.eve-audio.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>-Eve Audio-<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201c[\u2026] there are as many opinions as there are technical data points to back them up. I personally prefer a bass-reflex system as I believe it provides a more real-world experience that will better translate.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.adam-audio.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>-Adam Audio-<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>\u201cAs most studios are smaller spaces, the extra output and low frequency extension from a ported subwoofer isn\u2019t necessary, so I would recommend a sealed subwoofer. The added low frequency extension you get from room gain makes the additional output and depth less important. We specifically design all SVS subwoofers to make the best use of room gain. Sealed subwoofers also have an advantage over ported in terms of transient response, or the ability to start and stop on a dime, which is important when recording.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.svsound.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>-SVS-<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The truth as always is somewhere in between, therefore&nbsp;<strong>choose a sealed sub:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>if your studio isn\u2019t particularily large<\/li><li>if the chosen sub can reach the SPL\u2019s you require<\/li><li>if your chosen sub can go as low as you require<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Get a ported sub:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>if your studio is BIG<\/li><li>if sealed subs won\u2019t go as loud as your monitors<\/li><li>if your chosen ported sub goes as low as you need<\/li><li>AND make sure your ported sub&nbsp;is tuned LOW (ask the manufacturer)<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>For studio work a sealed subwoofer seems to be the optimum choice as long as you can get it go loud and low enough. In most small studios a 12\u201d sealed sub should be enough, for ported designs 10\u201d is sufficient. And keep in mind that 90% of the time integration will impact the overall sound more than the type of subwoofer enclosure one is using. We\u2019ll cover that in a future article!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 id=\"1491047793629-0b0bbfcc-abbe\">Bass electronics<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Besides a sturdy box and a giant driver, most decent subs will have an amplifier and filter unit. Usually subs come equipped with class-D plate amps ranging from 100W up to a few kilowatts. We wouldn\u2019t recommend sweating the watts too much, SPL is what matters in the end. With that said extra power never hurts, especially with sealed subs which are extremely inefficient.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Filtering is a bit more complicated. I\u2019d recommend looking for a sub with built in variable hi-pass filters which send higher frequency content to your monitors. Otherwise integrating the sub can get pretty complicated. Luckily most studio subs do come with these filters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Then there are hi-fi and passive subwoofers. In theory both shouldn\u2019t be worse than purpose made studio subwoofers, but in practice it takes extra know-how to make them work well. Often home theater and hi-fi subs don\u2019t have variable filters for signal throughput and passive subs mean you\u2019re basically on your own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 id=\"1491048263120-3a8692d4-f105\">To sum it up<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>If you want your monitoring to dive deep, nothing beats a good subwoofer. Keep in mind these points and you\u2019ll be on the right track to good insightful bass:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol><li>A 12\u201d sealed sub will be sufficient most of the time as long as it can get enough SPL\u2019s<\/li><li>Having a variable hi-pass filter with outputs makes integration much easier<\/li><li>To keep it simple always stick to one bigger sub, instead of multiples<\/li><\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p>Ask away in the comments if you have any questions and don\u2019t hesitate to call us out if something\u2019s dead wrong!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>There are plenty of articles out there about the best studio subs out there, this one will be a bit different. We haven\u2019t heard or measured all studio subwoofers out there, so it\u2019s not easy to give you straight recommendations. Instead we\u2019ll teach you how to be bass-smart. This article will explain what to look&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2563,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_improvement_type_select":"improve_an_existing","_thumb_yes_seoaic":false,"_frame_yes_seoaic":false,"seoaic_generate_description":"","seoaic_improve_instructions_prompt":"","seoaic_rollback_content_improvement":"","seoaic_idea_thumbnail_generator":"","thumbnail_generated":false,"thumbnail_generate_prompt":"","seoaic_article_description":"","inline_featured_image":false,"seoaic_article_subtitles":[]},"categories":[81],"tags":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v19.11 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Studio Subwoofer: How To Choose The Best One - Sonarworks Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Looking for a studio subwoofer? 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